Pampa Suede Chukka Boot

The chukka is the short boot that British officers brought back from the desert in the 1940s: two or three pairs of lace holes, the ankle covered and nothing else. It became the footwear that sits between the shoe and the boot, what you put on when a sneaker is too little and a dress shoe is too much.

The Pampa boot is that chukka in its city version. Instead of the crepe sole of the desert boot, it sits on a rubber sole with a stacked heel, and the upper is rough out cowhide suede, in a tobacco brown that arrives with the toe and the heel already darkened, as if it had a few years of wear. Inside, leather lining and insole. It is the boot that goes with jeans and with tailored trousers without changing register.

The rough out suede

The hide is used flesh side out, which gives a longer, more irregular nap than sanded suede. The toe and the back of the heel get a factory darkening that lays the nap down and deepens the color, almost black at the tip. The result is a boot that does not look new even on the first day, and that will keep darkening where it folds and lightening where it rubs.

The lace is round, brown, with metal tips, and runs through three pairs of holes with no visible eyelets. Over the instep, a double seam in tobacco thread closes the vamp.

Stacked heel and rubber sole

The sole is black rubber, with a traction pattern at the front and a 1.2 in (3 cm) heel with a stacked finish, in wood toned layers, the detail you see from the side and that separates a city version from a desert boot. A stitched welt runs the outline of the sole. The weight is that of a substantial shoe, not a work boot.

Pull tab and short shaft

The shaft closes at the ankle and has a dark fabric pull tab at the back, to put on standing up. The center back seam and the darkened heel counter show in this view. Leather lining, which does not heat up like synthetic and softens with wear.

What to wear it with

Straight hem or a light cuff, showing the shaft. With raw or dark denim it is the original pairing; with the Tailored Pleated Corduroy Trousers and with twill trousers in beige or olive, it is the piece that keeps the look on the casual side. Thick wool socks showing between the hem and the shaft is the way to wear it in the cold. It does not go well with trousers very tight at the ankle, which make the boot look bigger than it is.

Specifications

• Upper: rough out cowhide suede, with darkened toe and heel
• Lining: leather
• Insole: leather
• Sole: rubber, with traction pattern
• Heel: 1.2 in (3 cm), stacked, wood toned finish
• Shaft: short, closes at the ankle, with pull tab
• Closure: round lace, three pairs of holes
• Toe: rounded
• Color: Coffee (tobacco brown with darkened tips)
• Not waterproof and no steel toe

Which size to order

Measure your bare foot, from the heel to the tip of the longest toe, with the foot flat on the floor and your weight on it. Compare with the chart.

Foot length, not shoe length. Between two sizes, take the larger: boots are worn with thicker socks than shoes, and suede gives little. The number printed inside the boot is the foot length in millimeters, which is how the maker sizes; always use the chart above.

Care

• Suede is cleaned dry, with a soft bristle brush, always in the direction of the nap.
• Water marks brush out once dry. Do not rub with a wet cloth.
• If it will see rain often, apply a suede protector spray before the first wear.
• Do not use polish or smooth leather cream: they close the nap and stain.
• Dry in the shade and away from heaters. Store with crumpled paper inside so the shaft does not crease.
• The darkening of the toe and heel is from the factory and varies from pair to pair. It is not a defect.